New Old California

I recently had the opportunity to drive Hwy 49, a road that I adore. Twisting and winding from Auburn to Grass Valley, Hwy 49~ the Gold Rush Road.

Highway 49 actually begins further North than Grass Valley and continues South to Mariposa, but I'll save those stretches for another day. This stretch of Hwy 49 encapsulates the very essence of the Gold Rush. It is where it began and has that same pioneer flair today.

From Sacramento, our (Not) Beloved State Capital, take Highway 50 East to Placerville.

Placerville was once called Hang town. Notorious for Vigilante Justice, the old hanging tree was cut down and a Hay and Feed store went up in it's place. Over the years it has been a theater and a saloon, the stump supposedly still under the floor boards. Now 305 Main Street is listed as a Historical Landmark #0141. Folks around there swear the place is haunted.

A few other historical buildings surround the Hangman's Tree, and it is sure worth your while to stop a spell and visit them. There are plenty of restaurants and a Brew house nearby too.

Take Hwy 49 North out of Placerville and you will pass Victorian style homes as you begin climbing the ridge. These roads were once just the paths that the miners walked, leading their pack donkeys into town.They have changed course very little over the hundred and seventy years since James Marshal discovered that first nugget.  Now and then you will see the tops of the denuded hills. Once these hills were thick with pine and oak, cut down to make buildings and shore up mines. Some of the Oaks have come back, but most recently they have been cleared to plant orchards of apples, peaches figs and of course, wine grapes. You will find a few orchards open to the public, selling their fruits, wines, jams and pies. It is like a moveable feast. During the fall you may even find Pumpkins and treats for Thanksgiving.

Further along is Coloma, the site of the the initial gold find and the start of the Gold Rush. Most of the town is now a state park, but the buildings that are still standing are the original buildings. The original saw mill first build at the behest of Captain John Sutter is the only building that has been reconstructed. It sits on the American River, a beautiful stretch of water that now caters mostly to white water rafting companies. There are probably ten rafting companies along the river now, a few even have 'walk-in' rafting. Prime rafting months are late spring and summer. It's a fun and exhilarating way to see the canyons.

Golden hills pass as you continue North, the air is pungent with the smell of tar weed, pine trees and clean fresh air. The best way to see Hwy 49 in my view is in an open sports car, with good brakes. If you are in your sedan, be sure to wind down the windows and inhale. This is what California should smell like!

You pass through Cool and begin your winding journey down. Check your brakes and don't be afraid to use 2nd gear, the road is more crooked than a car salesman. At the bottom of the canyon you will cross over the river again at Confluence Park in the Auburn State Recreational Area. There are extensive hiking trails through here and you can also park your car and try to find your own 'color', the miners term for finding gold nuggets. The park is staggeringly beautiful in any season, with wildflowers, falling water, craggy boulders and a glittering river.

After you have recovered from the exciting drive down the mountain, be sure to stop in Old
Downtown Auburn.There are Museums, ( my favorite is the Placer County Museum, inside the majestic old Capitol Building),restaurants, brew houses and shops. Don't miss the iconic Red and White Striped Firehouse at the edge of town, or the gigantic Gold Miner statue in Chana Park.
Find your way underneath Highway 80 and continue North on Hwy 49 toward Grass Valley.

Once the home of the Gold Rush International singer and dancer Lola Montez, Grass Valley is a strange mixture of Old California and New. The Lola Montez home was located at 248 Mill Street.

 It is rumored that she once had a pet bear chained in her front yard.

 Art Deco buildings sit side by side with Gold Rush era buildings; Italianate houses overlook trendy restaurants. Grass Valley is a thriving and growing town. Wineries have sprung up, local restaurants have samples of the fine beverages as well as locally sourced fruit and vegetables.  There is a large Farmers Market on Thursday evenings during the summer and fall. Music, food and drinks~ what could be better!


There is so much to do and to see along this small piece of California. It is often overlooked by tourists more eager to visit Yosemite, San Francisco or Disneyland, but it is essential to understanding the history of the Golden State. Golden hills, gold in the ground, golden sunshine, all excellent reasons to take a weekend and visit the Gold Country!